★ 3.8 Absinthe cocktails
Absinthe is a strong, anise-flavoured spirit made with grand wormwood, famous from the Belle Époque and essential in classics such as the Sazerac, the Corpse Reviver No. 2 and the Death in the Afternoon. On this page you find absinthe cocktails from a subtle glass rinse to drinks where it takes centre stage, together with the traditional water ritual and advice on how much absinthe a drink really needs.
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What absinthe is
Absinthe is a distilled spirit flavoured with grand wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), green anise and fennel, often with other herbs. It is usually bottled at high strength, commonly between 45 and 74 percent. Green absinthe gets its colour from herbs steeped after distillation, while clear absinthe, sometimes called blanche, skips that step.
History and the ban
Absinthe became hugely popular in France and Switzerland in the nineteenth century and was banned in several countries in the early twentieth century, including Switzerland, the United States and France. The bans were lifted in Europe from the 1990s onward and in the United States in 2007. Modern regulations limit thujone, the compound in wormwood that was once blamed for its effects; today the strength of the alcohol is considered the main concern.
The louche and the ritual
Traditionally absinthe is served with cold water slowly dripped into it, sometimes over a sugar cube on a slotted spoon. The drink turns milky and opalescent, called the louche, as the herbal oils come out of solution. A ratio of about 1 part absinthe to 3 to 5 parts water is typical.
Absinthe in cocktails
Because it is so intense, absinthe is often used in small amounts:
- As a rinse: swirl a few millilitres in the glass and discard the rest, as in the Sazerac.
- As a few dashes: in the Corpse Reviver No. 2 or a Morning Glory Fizz.
- As a main ingredient: in the Death in the Afternoon, with Champagne.
Choosing a bottle
Choose a distilled absinthe made with real wormwood. Avoid very cheap, artificially coloured products. Pastis or another anise spirit can stand in for a rinse, although the flavour will differ.